(Wed,
Feb 5)
Today we stayed mainly indoors due to our return journey across the
Drake Passage. It was nowhere near as rocky heading north as it had
been heading south. No fruit went
tumbling off the bar. No crockery went
a-clanging as it unpiled itself. I did not get seasick.
However, as a precaution, soup was not served with meals. As the ship hurried ahead, seabirds followed
effortlessly.
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| Me, Peter, Monica, Katja |
Three lectures were
offered: Land of Records by Martín (which
presented facts about Antarctica), The Ozone by Juan (updated information on
this phenomenon which preoccupied humanity a decade earlier) and Whales &
Dolphins by Kata, who had a passion and keen understanding of these mammals.
Land of Records:- Whereas the Arctic is an ocean covered in ice
and surrounded by continents, the Antarctic is a continent covered in ice and
surrounded by ocean. Antarctica’s ice
sheet is up to 4.8 km thick. Its
weight pushes parts of the continent below sea level. Also because of the ice sheet, this continent
has the highest average altitude of all the continents. The highest point is Mount Vinson at 4900m
above sea level. The South Pole, where
temperatures can plummet to -75℃, is 1235km from the
nearest coastline. Earth’s lowest
temperature ever (-89℃) was recorded at Vostok, a
Russian research station. Only 0.4% of
the continent’s surface is ice-free. The
earliest map showing the continent was published in 1531. Captain James Cook was the first to
circumnavigate in 1770. After him,
expeditions were mainly for hunting.
Shackleton and Scott started scientific research, and this trend has
remained until the present. Up to 10,000
scientists and support staff work here in the austral summer, whereas only
around 1,000 remain through the winter.
The Antarctic Treaty reserves the continent for peaceful purposes and
all military and industrial activities are banned.
The Ozone:- I’m embarrassed to
admit that Juan’s talk was too technical for me, and I
did not follow. Also, I
was comfortable and sleepy and I dozed off for
much of it.
Whales &
Dolphins:- Several groups of mammals have adapted to an
aquatic life, among them cetaceans (whales and dolphins), carnivores (polar
bears, otters, sea lions, seals and walruses), and sirenia (manatees and
dugong). Cetaceans have developed
hydrodynamic shapes, hairless bodies, fins instead of limbs, telescoped skulls,
superior nasal openings, absent outer ears, and bones with a high fat
ratio. This type of mammals is divided
into two groups: baleen whales (which exclude dolphins and porpoises) and
toothed whales (which include dolphins and porpoises). Baleen whales feed almost exclusively on
krill, while toothed whales have a more varied diet. The southern blue whale is the largest
species on earth ever, and it was the most catastrophically affected by the
whaling industry. The fin whale is the
most widely distributed cetacean in the world.
The humpback whale is also widely distributed, found in all oceans and
seas except the Mediterranean. The Orca
is the most easily identifiable, and the largest species of dolphin.
(Thu,
Feb 6)
Today we rested mostly indoors again.
It was time to retrieve our passports (which we handed
in when we boarded) and pay for the things we’d consumed on board (read beer, in my case). Katja and I went onto the bridge to see what we could see.
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| (click) |
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| Peter, Olivia, Katja, Me, and a man from Fujian Province, China |
We were briefed on procedures for docking back in Ushuaia. In the afternoon, there was a journey recap. Leandro and the others reminded us of all the things we’d seen, done and learned. We were also shown a video they had created of our trip. They then gave us a lovely surprise – each of us was given a USB with all the information we might want to save about this unforgettable journey. Best of all, this USB was shaped like our vessel, the trusty MV Ushuaia.
We were then presented with certificates
ascertaining that we had visited the Antarctic.
The ceremony was closed with a toast of champagne. Our Farewell Dinner was served shortly
afterwards. I felt rather sad that the adventure had drawn to a
close. But dinner did not mark the end,
for a group of passengers returned to the bar after dinner to dance, drink and
celebrate.
Visitors have been
travelling to Antarctica on organised tours for around sixty years. This tourism, like scientific and fishing
activities, is governed by the Antarctic Treaty, which has been signed by 53
nations, and which has put all territorial claims on hold. Since the 1960s, visitor numbers increased
slowly. Then in the 2000s, the number
climbed rapidly until peaking in 2008.
The world economic downturn brought the numbers sharply down; still,
visitor numbers were not lower than in the early 2000s. In
the 2017/2018 season, 51,707 travellers reached Antarctica.
(Fri,
Feb 7)
Waking after last night’s festivities was not easy. Before breakfast, we had to leave our large
items of luggage outside our cabins so the sailors and crew could bring these
to land. Shortly after eating, it was
time to disembark. I was astonished to find no fewer than seven vessels
all docked at the diminutive port.
As we came in to port,
cellular connections were restored. My
phone was inundated with notifications and messages. I
looked first at messages from school. I would learn that Taiwan had introduced some solid
procedures to halt the spread of Covid-19.
First, the start of semester was pushed back by two weeks. Second, all travellers arriving from any part
of Mainland China would need to self-isolate for 14 days. Since I
was meant to be transiting through Hong Kong, I decided to change my itinerary.
I spent ages looking at alternative options. There were a number of choices with a range
of prices attached. In the end I
settled on taking the first leg of my return as far as Moscow, but to then
cancel the second leg to Hong Kong. Instead I’d
spend two nights in this city before jetting to Vladivostok for a further two
nights. From there I’d get aviation via Japan to Taipei. I
extended my travel insurance and booked new accommodation.
This time Ushuaia was sunny
and pleasantly warm. Katja and I had booked an apartment to share, and the host
allowed us to check in early. (This host
and the previous one left me with impression that the city at the end of the
world was quite safe. The previous one
had instructed me to leave the keys inside the unlocked door as I vacated, while this one left his keys under a rug at
the front door for me to check in. I’d leave the keys there again after vacating in two
days.) I immediately did laundry… lots of laundry… three loads’ worth. Over the next two days, Katja and I wandered about, slipping into cafes, shopping for
food at a supermarket, and occasionally bumping into people we’d met on the
cruise. I had drinks with a few of them at Dublin pub just a few blocks away,
and I was thrilled with how affordable hopsy beverages were
on land. I noticed now, as I had before the cruise, that locals parked their cars
with front wheels turned and jammed against the sidewalk. I
guess this was a measure to prevent unexpected rolling – Ushuaia is very
hilly. More than a few vehicles had flat
tyres, leaving one to think that they weren’t necessarily repaired when the air
had escaped.
(Sat,
Feb 8)
Katja and I went on the Tren del Fin del Mundo, which began life
as a railway built and used by prisoners who were made to fell trees for
construction and fire. It travels mainly through the Tierra del Fuego National
Park. It has steam engines that have been modernized to use environmentally
friendly power production. It was a sunny day, beautiful outside but sweltering
within the pokey carriages, whose sole ventilation were windows near the top
that flapped down only slightly. The
surrounding scenery was gorgeous as the train passed first peaks and then the
tree graveyard (stumps left over after wanton felling). The stuffy conditions within led to the
slumber of first Katja and then me.
From there we returned to the city. In the evening we met Leonard and Dorothy for dinner before joining the American trio (Miki, Andrew and Chris) for drinks at Dublin. It was lots of fun to see them all, but we would have an early rise on Sunday for our flights back to the Argentine capital, and the night had to come to an end.
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From there we returned to the city. In the evening we met Leonard and Dorothy for dinner before joining the American trio (Miki, Andrew and Chris) for drinks at Dublin. It was lots of fun to see them all, but we would have an early rise on Sunday for our flights back to the Argentine capital, and the night had to come to an end.
(Sun,
Feb 9)
In the capital, Katja and I had booked separately. On the plane with me was a couple from Taiwan
I’d met on the boat.
We agreed to get a taxi together in Buenos Aires. They tried to hail an Uber, and to my
surprise, they were able to do so. The
couple was heading further than I
was, so I gave them some cash – they were not sure if the Uber
would charge their card or take only cash; they’d heard on their travels that
in Argentina only cash was accepted.
This duo deserves more mention.
They were younger than me, but not that young. He was a qualified plastic surgeon, and she
was a travel blogger. They’d left Taiwan
a year ago and travelled to all continents.
They would continue travelling for another six months and only return to
Taiwan in July. They live in Taipei,
though he is from Taichung.
Katja and I had arranged to meet, and we wandered about looking
at things.
We made our way by Subte (metro). On the metro system, buskers seemed to be allowed to enter carriages, sing their rap song or lament with a portable radio for accompaniment, collect coins in their hats and then move to the next carriage or change trains. One such busker could not have been older than 14. Commuters clapped for the performers, and some reached into their purses.
We made our way by Subte (metro). On the metro system, buskers seemed to be allowed to enter carriages, sing their rap song or lament with a portable radio for accompaniment, collect coins in their hats and then move to the next carriage or change trains. One such busker could not have been older than 14. Commuters clapped for the performers, and some reached into their purses.
We exited the tunnels at
Plaza de Mayo. Nearby stood the Catedral
Metropolitana and the Casa Rosada (the presidential palace). Our destination was the long, narrow alley
Defensa along which a flea market buzzed.
We sauntered southward. We each
bought some souvenirs and then stopped for a drink. A noisy group of drummers shuffled haltingly
by, scantily clothed dancers just ahead of them holding out hats for tips.
That evening we took ourselves to La Carniceria. I’d read about this carnivorous eatery and had booked online a month ago. We’d been told that our table would be held for 15 minutes only. Furthermore, we had only two hours to eat before offering our seats to the next sitting.
We arrived before the establishment opened its doors. We scurried in with the other diners. We were led to a table and offered menus, which by the way had around seven starters and only four main courses from which to choose. Then our waiter took his good old time getting to us. We finally placed our order thirty minutes after arriving and that much closer to our deadline! Never mind! With our drinks, an amuse-bouche was brought to the table. This constituted lightly toasted brown sour dough bread served with caramelised bone marrow. Delicious! Then I’d ordered blood sausage – my second attempt at this Argentine offering, the first being on the ship in the Antarctic. I tried but failed to enjoy it. That is enough blood sausage for one lifetime. Katja ordered the deviously named chitterlings: intestines with fig and aubergine. That was scarcely more palatable. The main course was much more familiar, though the portions were way too large – parilla cut (beef ribs) and smoked cut (beef on the bone).
We called it a night, but arranged to meet the next morning for a final wander before I was to depart back to Istanbul.
That evening we took ourselves to La Carniceria. I’d read about this carnivorous eatery and had booked online a month ago. We’d been told that our table would be held for 15 minutes only. Furthermore, we had only two hours to eat before offering our seats to the next sitting.
We arrived before the establishment opened its doors. We scurried in with the other diners. We were led to a table and offered menus, which by the way had around seven starters and only four main courses from which to choose. Then our waiter took his good old time getting to us. We finally placed our order thirty minutes after arriving and that much closer to our deadline! Never mind! With our drinks, an amuse-bouche was brought to the table. This constituted lightly toasted brown sour dough bread served with caramelised bone marrow. Delicious! Then I’d ordered blood sausage – my second attempt at this Argentine offering, the first being on the ship in the Antarctic. I tried but failed to enjoy it. That is enough blood sausage for one lifetime. Katja ordered the deviously named chitterlings: intestines with fig and aubergine. That was scarcely more palatable. The main course was much more familiar, though the portions were way too large – parilla cut (beef ribs) and smoked cut (beef on the bone).
We called it a night, but arranged to meet the next morning for a final wander before I was to depart back to Istanbul.
(Mon,
Feb 10)
We popped to the Palacio de Aguas Corrientes, the now largely disused
pumping station of the water company.
The building was grand indeed, but within there was only a small museum
exhibiting gadgets and fittings of a plumbing nature. On the ground level there were tellers
attending to customers, suggesting that the edifice still functioned as a
provider of facilities, or at the very least, a collector of fees. I
needed to use the bathroom, and I
was astonished at how cavernous it was.
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I didn’t have time for anything else as I had to check out by 11:30. Katja joined me and then we went for lunch in
a nearby restaurant. Soon it was time to
get to the airport, and I hailed a cab on Uber; I’d learned this from the Taiwanese couple. However, I
didn’t have any cash on me, and when the driver said cash only, I asked if he’d take me to a bank first. He said yes, but when I ran to pick up my luggage from the restaurant and say
a hurried goodbye to Katja, he drove off.
To add insult to injury, Uber sent a message to my phone saying that I would be charged 20 pesos for the driver’s
inconvenience. It was okay to take that punishment from my card, but
not the fare? !!! I
was livid! Well, what was there to do? I located an ATM, withdrew enough to get me to the
airport, and then hailed a regular cab.
The first driver refused to go all the way to the airport. The second was one of the most pleasant
drivers I’ve had, and he and I spoke intermittently using my seven words of Spanish and his five words
of English. It was a good way to say goodbye to Argentina.
Leaving that evening, the
promise of another happy reunion lurked in Istanbul. There my friends Kathy and James would arrive
a half day before me. They were on their
way back to the Netherlands from South Africa, and they’d planned it such that
they had a few days with me in the city that straddles two continents. Istanbul
was originally on my agenda when I
travelled to the Ends of the Earth 54 months earlier, removed because of the
crisis following the failed coup, and I
was thrilled to be headed there now.
Transferring in Amsterdam, the security check in the transfer hall was
grossly underequipped and understaffed.
The procedure was way too slow for the quick connections KLM sells. Mine was fortunately not too short, so I had time to get bored in the queue.
